Every boat is different and everyone has different standards with regard to what they require to feel safe when heading out sailing or going on passage.
From my experience I've developed a standard pre-passage checklist. While your boat and requirements will vary, you can use this 100 point checklist as a good starting point to create your own. Hopefully it'll help you avoid a few problems and maybe help you remember something you'd otherwise forgotten.
I've broken the checklist down into ten major categories that cover everything from the top of the mast to the bottom of the keel. I’ve arranged them into an easy to follow checklist with descriptions of what I look for when preparing to head offshore.
Please note there can be no such thing as a complete standard list—it is up to each individual captain and crew to ensure they've done everything necessary prior to setting sail.
1. Rigging
Standing Rigging
☐ 1. Check Turnbuckles: You want to closely inspect all turnbuckles for any cracks or corrosion. Closely look at any small areas of rust. Rust can be an indicator of a hairline crack. Any cracked parts, no matter how small the crack, must be replaced.
☐ 2. Chain Plates: Inspect the chain plates closely for any cracks. A magnifying glass can help you spot any hairline cracks. Inspect the chain plates both above and below decks. Inspect the bolts attaching the chain plates to the hull and make sure everything is tight and that there is no wear.
☐ 3. Saddles, Toggles and Clevis Pins: Check that there are no cracks or wear and that there is a good fit between all saddles, toggles and clevis pins. There should not be any “play” in the connections.
☐ 4. Cotter Pins: Cotter pins should be sprung open about 10 degrees on each side and not bent or made into cute curly cues. It’s important that the cotter pins are opened enough so they can't come out unexpectedly, but you don't want them bent which would make them difficult to remove in an emergency. Cotter pins should not be reused. Don't straighten a cotter pin and put it back in to save a few cents; the risk isn't worth it.
☐ 5. Shrouds and Stays: It’s important to inspect for any fraying or cracking of the wires. It’s especially important to inspect the wires where they meet the terminals at the lower ends. Saltwater can get down into the terminal which speeds corrosion and it’s very common for a shroud to have wires break right where they meet the terminal.
Shrouds and stays should be under tension; there should never be any slack. Stainless steel is especially susceptible to work hardening which weakens the metal. Work hardening is caused when the metal repeatedly goes from slack to being under tension and back again. This is why shrouds should be tight enough to keep tension at all times. There are wire-tensioning gauges to adjust the tension properly.
☐ 6. Visual Inspection of the Mast: Stand on the bow and sight up and down the mast making sure it is straight, not bent or wavy. Look at the mast from the side, it should have some rake (gradually bend toward the stern nearer the top). Check for any cracks or corrosion, especially at shroud and stay attachment points.
Going up the Mast
This is generally a two-person job which requires trust in the person operating the winch. If you operate the winch to send someone aloft, make sure you know how to properly operate a winch. The other person’s life is literally in your hands.
It’s important to have a good bosun’s chair (also known as a boatswain's chair) and tie a bowline knot to attach the chair to the halyard. Do not rely on shackles for the connection.
Long pants and shoes should be worn for extra protection when going aloft.
You'll want to pack some zip-ties, rigging tape, a piece of sandpaper, a few cotter pins and a can of McLube Sailkote.
I prefer to start at the top of the mast and work my way down. You want to inspect every connection, halyard and sheave.
☐ 7. Wind Instruments: Starting at the masthead check that your wind instrument sensor is working and spinning freely and/or check that the Windex is working properly.
☐ 8. Masthead Halyard Sheaves: Make sure they spin freely, have no burs and that they're not chafing the halyards. If there are any burs on the sheaves they can be smoothed out with a bit of sandpaper. They may also need a bit of lube.
☐ 9. Masthead Tricolor Light: Check and ensure it's working properly. Check the electrical terminal for corrosion and make sure the light is secure and water tight.
☐ 10. Shrouds and Stays: Inspect for corrosion, wear, hair line cracks and broken wires. This is especially important since one broken shroud can bring down the entire rig. Small hairline cracks can be a real problem since they are so hard to see. If you don't have good eye sight you may want to use a magnifying glass. Any terminal or wire that has a hairline crack must be replaced. When inspecting stainless steel terminals and wires, pay attention to any rust. Hairline cracks often give themselves away by rust marks.
Look over all of the cotter pins and make sure they are in good condition. It’s just as important that they are installed correctly up here as it is on deck. In the event your mast ever comes down you want to be able to quickly and easily remove the cotter pins to free the rigging.
☐ 11. Inspect for Chafe Points: Halyards and sails can chafe on cotter pins and any rough edges of rigging. Use riggers tape and cover cotter pins and other chafe points as necessary.
☐ 12. Seize Shackles: This is especially important on shackles that are sent up the mast as the pins can work loose and they are up high where you can't visually inspect them on a daily basis.
I like to use zip ties instead of seizing wire as they work extremely well; they are much easier to put on than seizing wire and they have the added benefit of being very easy to cut off when you want to remove them.
Running Rigging
☐ 13. Lines, Sheets and Halyards: Check that all lines are free from fraying and chafe. Lines have a very long life if they're properly cared for. Soak them in fresh water a couple of times per year, flip them end for end so they don't wear in the same spots and make sure to keep the ends properly whipped so the jacket doesn't separate from the core.
Make sure that you know the difference between dynamic and static line as well as the difference between double-braid and three-strand line and what each type is used for. Static line doesn't stretch and should be used for running rigging; dynamic line stretches and is used for dock lines and anchor rode.
☐ 14. Blocks: Inspect all of the pulleys on board, including turning blocks, sheet blocks and furling line blocks.
Make sure they provide a fair lead for the line to avoid chafe, make sure they're well lubed and turn smoothly. Check that any shackles attaching the blocks are hand tight and seized with either wire or zip ties. Don't over-tighten shackles. In an emergency you want to be able to quickly cut the seizing and undo a shackle by hand. After every passage we make sure to flush out every block with fresh water and once per year you should un-seize any shackles; make sure you can undo them easily, and flush any salt out of the threads.
☐ 15. Winches: Check that all winches work properly. Winches should turn freely while making a steady clicking sound, indicating that the dogs and springs are good. Winches need regular service. To service a winch you'll need to disassemble, clean, grease, inspect for any cracks or broken parts, replace weak springs or broken dogs, then grease and reassemble. This can be time-consuming and it's easy to lose parts if you’re not careful. Take the time to note how the winch comes apart so that you can put it back together in the exact the same way. Taking pictures of each step is a good idea if you’re not confident in being able to put the winch back together.
Take care not to over-grease the gears. You want a light coat of grease so the winch turns smoothly, but not so much that it will clog or slow down the winch.
☐ 16. Line Locks and Cleats: Ensure that all line locks are working properly; they contain small springs and several moving parts. A line lock that isn't working properly can cause serious damage or personal injury.
☐ 17. Snatch Blocks: Every boat should have a good pair of properly sized snatch blocks. Properly sized means they should be large enough to easily handle your genoa sheets. I have been aboard so many boats that have undersized snatch blocks or none at all. Check that the snatch blocks turn smoothly, open and close freely and that the shackle opens and closes freely as well.
I've met many sailors who don't have a good set of snatch blocks and say they don't need them. Snatch blocks serve many purposes, in addition to being spares. They are great for rerouting lines, setting up temporary tackle, and making unfair leads fair. I can't think of a passage I've ever made when I didn't use my snatch blocks. Buy a pair of good, heavy snatch blocks and they'll last you a lifetime. After each use soak them in fresh water to keep them from corroding.
2. Sails
Sail Inspection
☐ 18. Inspect Sails for Wear: This can be done by laying a sail out on deck or unfurling a sail when there is no wind. Check for any stitching that is missing or frayed. You can also take your fingernail and scrape it over the stitching; the stitching should be tight and solid. If the stitching breaks or comes out, it's no good. If the sail is unfurled while still on the mast or stay, inspect it with the sun behind the sail and see if you can see any pinholes in the fabric.
☐ 19. Clew, Head and Tack: It's very important to check these three high load areas on a sail. The webbing used in these areas can easily become chafed or sun damaged. Sun damage is hard to visually inspect because the webbing can become weak with no visible signs. These areas are much more susceptible to UV damage due to the fact that they often stay exposed to the sun at all times (even when the sail isn't in use), as opposed to the rest of the sail which is generally protected from the sun by covers when not in use.
Always make sure to put sail covers on when sails aren't in use. The sun can ruin otherwise good sails if they are left exposed.
☐ 20. Sail Inventory: Inspect all sails and take inventory of what's aboard. Ensure the entire crew knows how to use every sail, and in what weather conditions to use particular sails.
If you or your crew is unfamiliar with the sails (and when to reef or change sails), it's a good idea to make a chart showing different wind speeds and what sail(s) should be used when the wind is a given speed.
☐ 21. Storm Sail(s): Make sure you have appropriate storm sails for your boat, check that they are easily accessible and test that they are easy to put up.
3. Hull and Deck
Hull
Before inspecting the individual items in this category, always do a thorough inspection of the entire hull first, looking for any cracks, large blisters or obvious delamination.
☐ 22. Prop Shaft and Prop: Inspect the prop, prop shaft and cutlass bearing. The prop and shaft should be clean and free of barnacles. Just a few barnacles on the prop will greatly decrease fuel efficiency and slow the boat down. If you have a folding prop, inspect that it folds and unfolds properly. Check that the prop nut is tight; if there is a cotter pin locking the nut, ensure it's in good condition.
It's also important to check that the prop shaft is straight and hasn't been bent or “rung”. Instantly putting the prop and shaft under heavy load—by jamming it into gear at high rpm or moving it from forward to reverse quickly—can “ring” the prop shaft, which torques it and puts a small bend or twist in the prop shaft; this isn't a visible bend but causes vibration. Vibration will cause damage to the bearings, transmission and result in an array of other problems.
☐ 23. Rudder: Inspect the rudder for any damage as well as any play between the rudder stock and bearings.
☐ 24. Speed Log, Depth Sounder and Thru Hulls: Inspect the speed log (a small propeller inserted in a thru hull that sticks out of the bottom of the boat and turns, indicating the boat’s speed over the bottom). These small propellers are easily fouled by algae and barnacles. An old toothbrush is handy for cleaning these. They will stay clean underway due to the constant motion but even a few days of sitting in an anchorage can foul them.
☐ 25. Zincs: Each boat is different with regard to how many zincs it has. It is common to have a zinc on the prop shaft, bow thruster, raw water side of the engine and sometimes the prop. Visually inspect all zincs (sacrificial anodes). If your boat has a grounding plate, ensure that you to keep it clean and free of corrosion. It's important that grounding plates aren't painted. If it is painted take sandpaper and remove any paint.
The purpose of zincs is to be sacrificial—they corrode instead of the metal parts of your boat. How long they last is dependent on many factors and they can last from a month to several years. It's important to inspect them regularly. How long they last is also dependent on the water your boat is in, so this year they may last six months but next year (in a different anchorage) they might be completely corroded in a month. Check them regularly. They are very inexpensive to replace but expensive damage can occur if you don't.
☐ 26. Bow Thruster: If your boat has a bow thruster it can become fouled with algae or barnacles just like your prop. Make sure it's clean. Bow thrusters generally have their own zinc as well.
Decks
☐ 27. Lifelines, Pulpit, Pushpit: Inspect lifeline cables, connections, stanchion bases and screws that attach everything to the deck. Lifelines, stanchions and railings are susceptible to the same corrosion and fatigue as the rest of your rigging and you definitely don't want them giving way at the wrong time. Check for small cracks, rust, bent parts and weak connections. If you have vinyl coated lifelines it's impossible to check the condition of the wire, but you should look for cracks in the vinyl as well as rust coming through.
Whenever possible we rig additional lifelines above the standard lifelines. We use spare sheets or halyards to rig an additional lifeline at chest height if possible. Every boat is different and this is possible on some boats but not on others. If your boat has shrouds that attach to the outer edge of the hull, it is often possible to run lines from the shrouds back to the pushpit. On a ketch we rig a chest-height line from the mizzen shrouds to the main shrouds and then down at an angle to the bow cleats. This will give you a sturdy line at chest height to grab onto in an emergency or just to keep a hand on while going forward.
If you have davits, a sturdy outboard hoist, or tall wind generator stanchion these can often be used to rig an additional lifeline. Whenever possible on center cockpit boats, we'll rig a line along the centerline from the stern (attached to davit, or stanchion) to the dodger. This will give you a line to hang onto when moving from cockpit to aft deck. You'll spend considerably more time in the cockpit or on the aft deck than you will going forward on deck so this is especially helpful for moving around.
☐ 28. Hatches and Portlights: Inspect all hatches and portlights and make sure they're as water tight as possible and that the latches are in good shape. Some sailors carry storm shutters to put over portlights but most don't. Portlight construction has improved considerably over the years so most portlights should be strong enough to handle any wave. If you don't have emergency shutters, spend a few minutes thinking about what you'd do if one blew out and water was rushing in. You can often times make an emergency shutter from a cabinet door to seal it up, but you should have a plan in advance in case of emergency.
☐ 29. Vents: Dorades, engine compartment vents as well as fuel tank vents often let in water. You may need to have a plan in place to seal them up in heavy weather, or fashion a cover to deflect water. Never seal up engine compartment vents when running the engine obviously, but inspect all vents and see how susceptible they are to shipping water into the boat.
☐ 30. Windlass and Hawse Pipe: If your windlass has electric controls on deck be sure to remove them (if possible) or seal them up if not. Seal the hawse pipe or you'll take on lots of water. When I do offshore passages I prefer to remove the anchor and rode and store it as close to the keel as possible (often in the bilge or under a settee— wherever I can secure it low and on the centerline). I'm very conscious of weight distribution when stowing gear and provisions. Anchors and chains are very heavy and stowing them near the keel will greatly improve performance and safety.
If you choose to leave your anchor rigged on the bow roller make sure it is well secured to keep it from bouncing around and make sure you put a safety line on it. When we remove the anchor for long passages we always re-rig it several miles before landfall in case we need to anchor quickly. If you’re coastal cruising I don't recommend stowing the anchor below; you should be able to deploy it quickly in an emergency.
Cockpit
☐ 31. Steering Pedestal: Ensure that the steering pedestal and wheel are both well-secured and that the steering works smoothly without a lot of play. Turn the steering from stop to stop and count how many turns this takes; it's important to know.
☐ 32. Compass: Every boat should have a compass mounted in the cockpit— visually inspect it.
☐ 33. Throttle and Gearshift: Work the throttle and gearshift and ensure they work smoothly. Check that the transmission engages and disengages in both forward and reverse.
Most sailboats have a combination throttle and gearshift where one handle puts the engine in gear and increases the throttle at the same time. If your boat has this system make sure that you know how to disengage the transmission and still throttle up (this is usually done with a button which allows you to disengage the transmission but still rev the engine) and that it works.
☐ 34. Steering System: It's very important to do a thorough inspection of every single piece of the steering system from the helm to the bottom of the rudder. Boats all have different types of steering but it's important that you follow every inch of the system from the steering wheel down through the boat. Inspect any pulleys, cotter pins, bolts, attachments, hydraulic fittings or chains and gears.
The steering system is constantly moving and under high load while sailing, which makes it very easy for parts to wear or work themselves loose. Of all the systems onboard (that are critical) this is the system that most often gives me problems. Not only do I inspect every inch of the steering system before passage, I re-inspect it every few days on passage (paying attention to any changes in the noise the steering system makes), look for loose nuts or bolts and any metal, wood or fiberglass shavings in the bilge indicating wear.
☐ 35. Emergency Tiller: Hopefully you'll never have to use your emergency tiller but make sure that the boat has one; test-fit it and make sure it works and make sure every crew member knows where it is stored and how to use it.
☐ 36. Bow Thruster Controls: If you have a bow thruster, test that it's working properly and that the controls don't stick. Bow thrusters often have a separate battery bank which will need the same inspection as your house battery bank.
☐ 37. Cockpit Drains: Check that the cockpit drains flow freely. These drains often get partially clogged with hair, food or anything else rolling around in the cockpit.
4. Interior
☐ 38. Electronics and Navigation: Check that all electronics are working, that you have manuals for them, and that you have all necessary charts, and pilot charts.
☐ 39. GPS, Chart Plotter: You should have a primary GPS as well as at least one backup. The backup should be completely independent of the boat's electrical system and use its own batteries. Make sure you have spare batteries.
☐ 40. Radar: If your boat has radar, test it and make sure every crew member knows how to use it.
☐ 41. VHS Radio: You should have a primary VHS radio as well as a backup. The backup VHS should be completely independent of the boat's electrical system and use its own batteries. Make sure you have spare batteries. Test both radios by doing a radio check. Make sure every crew member knows how to operate the radio, and knows the proper stations to use, as well as the correct radio protocol.
☐ 42. SSB radio: Test the SSB; check grounding connections and antennae connections. Have a list of frequencies you commonly use, as well as frequencies and times for cruising nets.
☐ 43. Autopilot: Test the autopilot and check all electrical connections, nuts and bolts. You should have spare mounting bolts, fuses, and hydraulic fluid (if you have a hydraulic system).
☐ 44. Sailing Instruments; Wind, Speed, Depth Sounder: Check the sailing instruments and make sure they work. Depth sounders often become grown-over with algae and barnacles and should be cleaned. The same applies for the small paddle wheel of the speed log, and it should be cleaned just before departure. A toothbrush works well for this.
☐ 45. Barometer: Check the barometer and make sure it's working. If it's electronic make sure you have spare batteries.
☐ 46. Galley: Check your fuel supply for the stove. Is the refrigeration working correctly? If it's an owner serviceable system, make sure you have spare Freon for recharging the system. There should be a fire extinguisher in the galley. A fire blanket is also a good addition.
☐ 47. Head: Test that the head is working properly. A good way to clean the head and inside of the discharge lines is by pouring white vinegar in, flushing just enough to get the water/ vinegar mix into the lines and let it sit. After cleaning, lubricate the pump and seals by pouring a bit of olive oil in, flushing just enough to get the olive oil into the pump and let it sit. This will keep your head clean and working smoothly. Make sure all crew members know to NEVER flush anything they haven't eaten first.
☐ 48. Stowage: Make sure all gear is properly stowed and crew members know the location of important gear. Nothing should be allowed to sit out down below and any gear on deck needs to be securely lashed down.
☐ 49. Tankage: Check that water and fuel tanks aren't contaminated. The constant motion of being at sea will stir up any sediment in the tanks and can make water undrinkable and fuel unusable. Fill tanks and make sure the level stays up and that there is no leakage.
☐ 50. Weight distribution: When stowing gear and provisions it is important to take weight distribution into consideration. Try to store heavy gear and provisions as low and close to the center of the boat as possible. This means heavy provisions like canned goods should be stowed under settee seats or in dry bilge compartments, while chips and toilet paper should be stored in overhead lockers. The same goes for gear and heavy equipment like chains and oil, and emergency jugs of water should be stored in the bilge, or as low as possible.
☐ 51. Lockers and Compartments Locked Shut: All lockers, compartment lids, and bilge compartments need to have secure locking mechanisms to keep them shut. Make sure the latch is strong enough to contain whatever is stored inside. Check all lockers—compartments such as under the settee often have lids that have no way to lock them closed. This can be remedied with small line, webbing straps or latches. Imagine taking your boat, turning it upside down and shaking it. Would everything stay where it was stored or would things go flying? If anything would go flying you have more work to do.
☐ 52. Companionway Ladder Locked Down: This is a big, heavy item that is usually designed to be easily removed for access, but is it locked down? If the boat rolls will it go flying? Check other heavy items like batteries and floor boards. These could cause serious damage or injury in heavy weather.
5. Engine Compartment
☐ 53. Visual Inspection: Do a thorough inspection of the engine compartment. Are there any loose nuts and bolts, loose wires, wires hanging down, loose or hanging hoses? Take your time and visually inspect every inch of the engine room and all of the systems in there. Look in the bilge for any nuts, bolts or screws that may have come loose and dropped to the floor or under the engine.
☐ 54. Check Fluids: Check all fluid levels and check your supply of spare fluids, making sure you have spare oil, coolant, transmission fluid, belt dressing, hydraulic fluid, battery water, WD-40 and emergency fuel.
☐ 55. Oil Level: Check the oil level regularly and note the level on the dipstick so you'll know if you're burning oil or if water or fuel is getting into the oil.
☐ 56. Coolant Level: Check the coolant level regularly and make sure the overflow tank is properly hooked up, clean and filled to the correct level. Spilled coolant will eat away paint on the engine so any spilled coolant should be wiped up and the engine cleaned off with a wet rag.
☐ 57. Transmission Fluid: Inspect the fluid level and note the level on the dipstick to allow you to monitor it correctly.
☐ 58. Visually Inspect Belts and Check Tension: Check belt tension; slipping belts cause wear and charging problems. I recommend regular use of belt dressing to reduce wear. Make sure you have spare belts.
☐ 59. Raw Water Impeller: Check impeller for wear and make sure you have a spare impeller.
☐ 60. Primary and Secondary Fuel Filters: Check/replace all fuel filters and clean sediment bowl(s). Make sure you have spare filters. Make sure you know the procedure to re-prime the fuel system.
☐ 61. Visually Inspect Bilge for Oil: Check all sides of the engine as well as the bilge for any signs of leaking fluids.
☐ 62. Replace Bilge Diaper If Necessary: Keeping a bilge pad/diaper under the engine is a good idea and makes any oil or fluid leaks immediately visible.
6. Systems
☐ 63. Water Maker: Water makers generally shouldn't be tested or used in port due to contamination possibilities. Make sure you have spare filters and pickling solution.
☐ 64. Genset: Do a visual inspection, and repeat steps 53 thru 61 for the generator. Check the electrical output and make sure you have spares for any fuses, as well as know where all circuit breakers are located.
☐ 65. Batteries: If your batteries take water make sure you top them up and check them regularly. Make sure all battery terminals and connections are tight. Inspect battery tie downs and make sure batteries can't come loose. You should have two separate battery banks (a house bank and an engine starting battery), and make sure you know the proper battery switch configuration.
☐ 66. Inverter: Test the inverter; make sure you have spares for any fuses, and check all circuit breakers.
☐ 67. Refrigeration: Make sure it's working, and cycling on/ off properly. Check power consumption.
☐ 68. Water Pumps: All fresh water, salt water, and sump pumps should be checked. Test that all automatic switches are working properly. Check for leaks and clean all filters.
☐ 69. Bilge Pumps: Test bilge pumps and make sure they're working properly. Inspect hose clamps and check valves. If your bilge pump(s) have automatic float switches test them. If you have automatic float switches you should also have manual override switches for all pumps. You should also have a manual, hand-operated bilge pump.
7. Safety Equipment
☐ 70. Abandon-Ship Bag: Compile a list of equipment you want to keep in your abandon-ship bag such as food, flares, water, and a radio. The items people choose to keep in the abandon-ship bag vary widely. Whatever you keep in your abandon-ship bag, make sure it's in good condition and usable. Keep a list of what's in the bag, other items to grab in an emergency and an abandon-ship procedure so that every crew member knows their job, and what to grab, in an emergency.
☐ 71. Life Raft: Check your life raft. Check the inspection date and make sure it's certified ‘good’ through your intended passage. If your raft is mounted on deck, inspect the mounting bolts, bracket and tether. If the raft is in a valise below deck make sure it's secured and easy to access. Make sure every crew member knows how to deploy and use the raft.
☐ 72. Coast Guard Required Equipment: At a very minimum, make sure your boat has all Coast Guard required equipment. Equipment requirements vary by boat size so double-check your safety equipment.
☐ 73. Required Plaques: The Coast Guard requires multiple safety plaques to be visibly displayed on board. Check that your boat has them.
☐ 74. Flares: Check the number of flares you have as well as their expiration dates.
☐ 75. Fire Extinguishers: Check all fire extinguishers; make sure they aren't expired and that their gauge is still in the green. They can't be below, or above, the green zone on the gauge.
☐ 76. Personal Flotation Devices: Make sure you have at least one life preserver for every crew member, that they're approved for your specific use, and that all crew members know where they're stored.
☐ 77. Jack Lines, Tethers and Harnesses: Check for any wear, chafe, corrosion or UV damage.
☐ 78. First Aid Kit: Make sure you have an adequate first aid kit, as well as commonly used first aid items such as extra bandages, Neosporin, hydrogen peroxide, medical tape and aspirin. There are entire books devoted to first aid on boats. Make sure to have a book so you'll know emergency first aid procedures if you ever need them.
☐ 79. Drogue or Sea Anchor: Check your drogue, sea anchor, or old tire and make sure it's rigged properly and that every crew member knows how to deploy it properly.
☐ 80. General Sailing Gear: Take inventory of general gear such as spare winch handles, deck bucket, spare shackles, sail ties, etc..
☐ 81. Binoculars: Every boat should have a good pair of binoculars.
☐ 82. Foul Weather Gear: Make sure every crew member has proper foul weather gear including, jacket, gloves, hat, pants and extra cold weather clothing. Even in the tropics it can be cold sailing at night.
☐ 83. Personal Headlamps: Every crew member should have a personal headlamp to allow for working at night hands-free. The best headlights have multiple light intensity settings, as well as a green or red night light filter to keep from ruining your night vision.
☐ 84. Gloves: You should have gloves for cold weather, gloves for sailing/rigging work, gloves for fishing, as well as rubber gloves for dirty projects.
8. Provisioning
☐ 85. Dry Goods: All dry goods should be removed from boxes and stored in plastic containers or Ziploc bags.
☐ 86. Canned Goods: Label all canned goods by writing their contents on the lid with a permanent marker. For long term storage or storing in the bilge (where they could become wet) it's best to remove the papers labels before stowing.
☐ 87. Fresh Food: Stow fresh food in cool, dark locations where it can't get wet or bruised. Make a list of foods and how long they'll last to ensure you use them before they go bad.
☐ 88. Drinking Water: Even if you have a water maker it's important to keep enough water onboard in case the water maker breaks. I always make sure to keep five litres, per person, per day, for the expected duration of the passage.
Example: For two people on a passage expected to last 20 days, I want to have 200 litres minimum onboard and I adjust that amount downward as the passage progresses. That amount is a bare minimum that I keep to make sure we don't run out if the water maker breaks. I've found that on average, we use about 15 litres per person, per day, on extended passages for drinking water, washing dishes, personal hygiene, hand-washing laundry, and showering. The crew will need to be conservative to use so little water but with a little experience and education, 15 litres per person, per day is a good rule of thumb for extended passages and living aboard.
9. Spare Parts
☐ 89. Electrical Parts: Make sure your spare parts kit includes spare bulbs for all lights (especially navigation lights), spare fuses, replacement wire terminals, extra wire and a multi-meter.
☐ 90. Engine Parts: At the very minimum you should always carry spare belts, a spare impeller and a spare alternator.
☐ 91. Rigging Parts: Make sure your kit includes spare cotter pins, clevis pins, wire (long enough to replace your longest stay), seizing wire, bulldog clamps and any other parts specific to your boat.
☐ 92. Plumbing Parts: Carry spare hose clamps, some spare hose, head rebuild kit and rebuild kits for important onboard pumps.
☐ 93. Nuts and Bolts: Keep a good assortment of stainless steel nuts, bolts, washers, lock washers, screws and lags onboard for various repairs.
10. Route and Passage Plan
☐ 94. Notify Proper Authorities: Before departure, make sure you've notified the proper authorities. This can include, but isn't limited to, customs, immigration, port captain, dock master, and coast guard. Make sure you also notify the proper authorities at your intended destination with your expected arrival date.
☐ 95. Notify Family and Friends: Notify family and friends to let them know that you'll be out of contact, or have minimum contact. Also make sure that they understand that offshore passages often last longer than expected due to changes in weather. Make sure they know that, just because you are a few days late or that they haven't heard from you, does not necessarily mean something is wrong, or that they should notify the authorities. You should have one contact who will notify the authorities if you become overdue; just make sure you discuss how long overdue, and under what circumstances they should notify the authorities that you might be in trouble.
☐ 96. Prepay Bills: Make sure your financial affairs are in order. You may not be able to pay bills, or even know about new bills while at sea, so make sure you've planned everything ahead of time.
☐ 97. Study Pilot Charts: Do your research and know what weather conditions you’re likely to experience for the time of year and area where you'll be sailing. Check current weather forecasts and talk with other sailors who've sailed in the area before.
☐ 98. Study Departure and Arrival Charts: Make sure you have all of the charts you'll need and study landfall charts so you have an idea of what to expect. Looking at aerial photos, photos of the city, harbour and marinas ahead of time can be extremely helpful. I always make a file on my computer with as many pictures of a landfall as possible for reference. I then look over these pictures again just before making landfall so they're fresh in my mind.
☐ 99. List of Emergency Numbers: Have a list of emergency numbers. This list can include family members who know who to contact in emergencies, a family doctor, the coast guard and local officials. You may also want to program these numbers in your satellite phone, if you have one.
☐ 100. Paperwork: Make copies of all of the ships documents. Make copies of all paperwork related to the boat as well as copies of passports, insurance, licenses, etc.. You may also want to have medical power of attorney paperwork drawn up in case you, or your crew, need medical attention.
In addition to thoroughly inspecting your boat before a passage it's important to talk with your crew and make sure everyone understands how everything works, what their responsibilities are and how to handle emergency situations. There will always be problems on passage but if you've prepared and everyone knows their job, things will go much smoother.